Setup plates are a great tool to use on the shop work bench or at the track.
The plates can be purchased through 1/4 scale Mfgs. Pro1 offers a nice set. You can also make your own out of several materials such as aluminum, lexan, masonite or metal. The round plates pictured on the right are Pro1 plates and are very high quality. The square is home made of steel. Racer preference will usually dictate the style & material used. I use both but prefer the square over the round just because I don't have to chase the chassis rolling on the bench.
Mounting the plates can be accomplished with a cordless driver or just a standard nut-driver. If you have studs on your hubs it makes this a lot easier but standard wheel screws work just as well. Two on each hub placed diagonally will be sufficient. 
Caution: if using a drill the plate can spin in you hand & get away from you! Once you have the plates mounted snuggly, set the chassis on a level table or bench. Using square plates you will need to align the rear hubs so that the plates are flat. 
If not, you will have the result of the picture to the right with one plate not setting flat.
Caution: if using a drill the plate can spin in you hand & get away from you! Once you have the plates mounted snuggly, set the chassis on a level table or bench. Using square plates you will need to align the rear hubs so that the plates are flat. If not, you will have the result of the picture to the right with one plate not setting flat.
Now you are ready to do the measuring of front/rear toe, wheel camber and wheel alignment with the chassis. These measurements put to the proper adjustments will help a chassis work to the best of it's ability. Take notes along the way. Your notes will become a base setup to refer back to as you progress in racing.
Measuring from the bottom frame rail to a straight edge you can set rear & front-end toe, track width and front to rear alignments. When using a straight edge remember to place it as close to the center of the plate as possible so that camber will not affect true toe alignment. See our other On the Bench articles that cover camber & toe adjustments.
Making your own plates:
Safety First: always wear safety glasses when ever cutting, grinding or sanding any material. Use other safety gear such as gloves when ever appropriate.
The material you choose for the plates will dictate the time it takes to make them. If using lexan, plexiglass, masonite or 1/4 plywood you can cut these with a table saw, jig saw or a knife in your own work area. If you prefer aluminum or metal, it's best to let professional shop cut them with a plasma cutter or a sheer press.
The plates should be approximately 6 inches square or 5 - 7/8 inches round . Once you have the plates you will need to find the center then mark it with a center punch tool. The hole in the center should be 7/8" inch in diameter to allow for clearance of the hub bearing carrier. Once you have the center hole in place, it is best to use a hub as a template to layout the bolt holes. But...the bolt holes should be on a 13/16" circular patter from the center. Now that you have the holes in place, fit the plate onto a hub to see how well it works. Three more just like this one & you'll have a full set!
