Part One
Part One: The Purchase
Buying Used – You should first ask around the local track to find a local used car for sale. If the car has been raced local, you can get more useful information about it from the owner and other racers. Plus, you can actually see what is there. The other options are finding one online or in the classifieds.
No matter which route you take, be sure you ask questions about it. If the owner is really interested in selling, they will take the time to give you information about it.
I will mention this; you don't have to buy the first car you come across! Before you seal the deal, just be sure that you are completely satisfied.
You might also think about shipping charges if buying from out of town. UPS & Postal charges are outrageous these days. Maybe the seller will meet you in the middle? Ask...
General questions to ask the owner:
· Has this chassis ever been seriously bent· Has the chassis ever needed welding to repair it· How old is the engine· When was the engine last rebuilt· How many races are on it after rebuild· How many times has the engine been rebuilt - was work done by a qualified builder· Are there any extra parts, tires & equipment such as fuel bottle, shock oils, charger...ect· Does it come with a radio, receiver & battery· What exactly is it going to take to get the car track ready
Buying New – Buying a new roller chassis with engine, you have to consider other expenses to get it track ready. You will need a radio, body & paint.
In order to buy your new chassis you must determine the manufacturer you would like to represent. Some mfg's are better known than others but it doesn't mean they are the better choice. New cars range from $1300 to $2200 depending on the mfg & how complete it is. There is no site on the web that has a buyers guide for quarter scales. You will have to rely on local racer suggestions or through discussions with the builder. Steer clear of discussion forums. You will get a ton of suggestions that may only confuse you further.
When discussing a purchase from the mfg, ask many questions and let them know your concerns. They are in the business of answering buyer questions. If they don't offer satisfactory customer service, then move on. Don't waste your time and money where it's not appreciated.
General questions to ask when discussing a new purchase:
· What accessories are included· Is the chassis a roller (will I need to buy tires)· How far along on the build is the car· What will I need to complete the car· Do you carry all replacement parts· Will I be able to contact you for setup help
Once you have purchased your new ride, its time to start thinking about spare parts. Extra heim joints and a few tires are a must. Also you will need to gather up tools and other support equipment as mentioned above in the used discussion. Some tools & useful items can be found on the Tool Box page. These are items to have at the track which have been suggested by average racers from around the country. There are other pages on this site with chassis setup information that will help you get to the front of the pack!
Part Two
Part Two: Tools & EquipmentNow that you have a car, you'll need to get it ready for the track. Getting on the track & making laps is the number one goal here. But there are steps to take before you get to that goal.First step is to gather up some needed tools. I have plenty of tools myself but it seems like the one I need at the time is the one I don't have. So, make a list and add to it as you go. Don't worry too much if you can't get everything upfront. There will be fellow racers willing to loan you just about anything you'll need. Just remember to return the favor later!Tools:• Cordless drill, drill bits & nut drivers
• Wrench Set - (1/4" - 9/16")
• Ball End Hex Wrenches (SAE & Metric)
• Small Crescent Wrench
• Nut Driver Set
• Screwdrivers - Phillips & Flat (small to medium sizes)
• Needle Nose & Channel Lock Pliers
• Tape Measure
• Duct Tape
• Assorted Zip Ties
• Vise Grip Pliers
• RPM Monster Camber Gauge (Tower Hobbies)
• Duct TapeSee other tools on the Tool Box Page
Spare Parts:
• Heim Rods (several RH 1/4) & few 3/16 (LH & RH)
• Spare Tires
• Bearings
• Spacers (can be made of aluminum rod or delrin)
• Washers (various sizes)
• Spark Plugs
• Gears (not a must but an option that you will eventually test)
• Assorted nuts and bolts
General Equipment:• Complete Radio (PCM or 2.4ghz)
• Economy Charger for radio receiver battery (Tower Hobbies)
• Long Extension cord
• A 48" table or a stand
• If you don't have an enclosed trailer, then get an EZ-UP 12' x 12'
• 1 gal fuel jug & Fuel Bottle
• Two-stroke oil ratio mixing cup (from a motorcycle shop)
• Cordless drill, drill bits & nut drivers
• Setup Sheets
Part Three
Part Three: Go Over The ChassisNow that you have an idea of tools needed, It's time to turn our attention towards your chassis.Quarter scale cars whether they be new or used can be purchased in many different stages of completion. Without knowing what stage you have, we'll start from the ground and work our way up.If you bought new, we will assume the mfg was kind enough to assemble the car with a setup that will work at your track.If you bought used, then the car will need a thorough going over. It is possible the car is in good condition and the seller even gave you a decent base setup. Nevertheless, going through the chassis will give you that peace of mind plus it will help you learn how to adjust & repair in the future.I have been told by racers and have read articles to always tear a used chassis down to the bare-bone and go through it. But if you have never worked on a 1/4 scale, you might get things crossed if you strip it down. So, work on one corner of the chassis at a time. Mark everything that you remove. I have even taken digital pictures oh my chassis before tear down just to be sure I put items back in the right direction. After a few weekend sessions of working & tweaking on the chassis you will become comfortable with it. At that point, a complete teardown will not phase you. When going over the parts, use the Pre/Post race page for reference of areas to be checking.Part Four
Part Four: Baseline SetupThese steps are intended to help new racers with the basic setup their chassis. Not all actual settings can be provided due to the difference in mfgs, tracks and classes. Some baseline settings are recommended to get you in close range.1. Choose Tire Size - When setting up a chassis make sure to use the tire you will race/test to be sure that any other measurements taken are relative to how the car will be raced. The front, use 0" to 1/4" stagger. The rear will normally be set with "1/2 to 1" stagger. If you are not sure which tire to start with, ask a local racer or contact Todd at BRP. Either will be able to help you get close on the tire choice for the track and temperature conditions.2. Adjustments - Adjustments should be made with the front sway bar disconnected. Later on you will reconnect/set the sway bar after adjustments are complete.3. Set Approximate Ride Heights - Put the car on a level flat surface and then set each corner to the height you want it in race trim. Even though this step will be repeated later it is important to do it now at this point also to ensure the next steps are accurate. This means that comparing ride heights with other handlers may not always be an apples to apples comparison but it will make sure your process is consistent. Click for more information on Ride Heights.4. Square the car - This is done by taking off the wheels and measuring from the lower chassis rail out to the hub or setup plate. While some setups result in the rear being slightly out of square, for a baseline start with it parallel to the lower chassis rail. Be sure to use a straight edge to your level surface for references to make sure your measurements on each side are consistent. Adjust your rear radius rods and front trailing arm accordingly to put the axle square.5. Set Camber - Camber can be set with a camber gauge or an angle finder. Use an angle finder to measure the angle from the top of the spindle bolt to the bottom parallel to the length of the car front to back. Right front caster is usually set somewhere between 2 and 5 degrees. Caster is adjusted most often by shortening or lengthening the upper or lower Heim rod. Tiny adjustments make a big difference. Click for more information on camber.6. Set Front Toe - The Toe-In / Toe-Out is set next so that the front wheels are parallel with each other while the car is in the alignment bars or has the wheels on it on a level surface. Click for more information setting Toe.7. Final Ride Heights - With all the wheels back on the car and back on your level surface re-measure to make sure each corner of the car is set to the desired height. At this point, you should depress the suspension a couple times until it rebounds fully. Now you can reconnect/set the sway bar.8. Practice - Its now time to put the car on the track. Allow the tires to heat up a bit before you let it rip. Be sure to check tire temps and wear about every ten to twenty laps during the first practice season. Click for more information on tire temps.
